Buffalo Designer Dog

Tips, Reviews, Recommendations

Door Open Or Closed When Feeding Dog In Kennels?

Door Open Or Closed When Feeding Dog In Kennels
Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate – After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.

If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish or interactive puzzle toy stuffed with food all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period.

Do you close the door when crate training?

Increase the length of time spent in the crate –

  1. Once your dog is happy in the crate for about 10 –15 minutes after their meal, start leaving the door closed for longer periods.
  2. As the dog enters the crate, give it a treat, praise it and close the door.
  3. Quietly sit nearby for a few minutes and reward the dog for remaining calm and happy.
  4. Continue with your daily activities and return regularly to reward the dog for its calm behaviour.
  5. Keep increasing the length of time that you crate your dog.
  6. Be patient – it can take weeks until your dog is comfortable.

Do dogs prefer open or closed crates?

What if my dog doesn’t like her crate covered? – Observe your dog for signs of anxiety when using a crate cover. Not every dog appreciates a blanket over their crate—for some, a cover may cause more fear than relief. Some dogs may accept a partly covered crate, while others prefer no cover at all.

If your dog shows obvious signs of discontent or becomes aggressive, a covered crate may not be suitable. In short, if a covered crate isn’t benefiting your dog, leave it uncovered. While not every dog appreciates the solitude of a covered crate, it can help anxious or excitable pets. When you properly introduce a crate cover, your dog may relish the opportunity to unwind inside her personal retreat.

With consistency, your companion can learn that a covered crate signals bedtime and offers a space to relax.

Do you shut the door on a dog crate?

How to crate train a puppy or dog – First, place the dog crate in a room with the door of the crate secured open. Do this while your dog is safely in another room so as not to spook them. Put the crate in an area away from direct sunlight and make sure that there is no clutter on the floor that may distract your dog.

It’s a good idea to put your dog’s inside the crate to make it more appealing and comfortable for them. Next, let the dog into the room and allow them to investigate on their own terms. If the dog shows interest in the crate, reward them with treats. If the dog goes inside the crate, reward them again but do not shut them in yet as this may upset them.

Keep the door fixed open to allow them the option to enter and exit freely. After this initial introduction you can make the crate a more appealing place by placing treats and toys inside or even feeding them their meals in there. Once your dog is happy settling inside the open crate, gently close the door but do not lock it.

  1. Repeat this for several days, ensuring they remain relaxed throughout.
  2. It’s worth providing a longer lasting chew or a stuffed inside the crate to increase the time it takes them to consume their reward.
  3. To increase their sense of security, cover the crate in a thick blanket or towel so that all sides are covered apart from the door.

When your dog is relaxed and happy to use the crate, you can begin to lock the door for short periods of time while you are still in the room. Gradually build up to locking the door and leaving the room for short periods of time, and then eventually the house.

Remember that your dog should always have access to water – you can get special bowls for metal crates that hook onto the side or non-spill water bowls that work well in fabric crates. Download steps as a handy advice sheet and use it as a reminder to train regularly: Spare a minute to sign up and receive Battersea emails so that you can get all the latest tips and tricks from our animal experts.

: How to crate train your dog

Should puppy crate doors be open or closed?

Crate Training Your Dog The key to house training your puppy is to reduce the possibility of accidents in the house. Crate training can help you with the process because dogs naturally do not soil their sleeping area. If you properly crate train your puppy, he will be happy to spend time in his crate.

Put the crate in a busy location in your house such as the living room or kitchen where your family spends a lot of time. Put a blanket and toys inside and leave the door open. Occasionally, toss a treat in the back of the crate for your puppy to find on his own. Bring your puppy over to the crate and encourage him to go into the crate by throwing a treat just inside the door. When he puts his head in the crate to get the treat, praise him by saying “good boy.” Continue this procedure but throw the treat farther and farther into the crate until the puppy is going all the way in. Praise him every time he goes in to get the treat. Next, try asking him to go into the crate — “Buster, get in your crate” as you motion with your hand. If he goes in, praise him and give him the treat. Then call him out (no treat for coming out) and do it again. Repeat this many times until he is reliably going in and out of the crate on command. When your puppy is reliably going in and out of the crate, you can start to close the door for short periods of time. Practice a couple of in and outs, but one time when he is inside, close the door. Praise him and give him food treats while he is inside, and then open the door and walk away (no treats for coming out). Repeat this over and over, slowly increasing the time the door is closed. Eventually, take a few steps away from the crate and then return and praise him while he is still inside. Slowly increase the distance you go away from the crate. Remember treats are only given when the puppy is inside. When letting him out of the crate, simply open the door and walk away. You are now ready to teach your puppy to stay quietly in his crate for a prolonged period of time. Put the crate next to your chair in the living room and prepare a chew toy stuffed with peanut butter. Ask your puppy to go into his crate, give him the chew toy, close the door and turn on the T.V. If he begins to cry, you should ignore him. If you let him out when he is crying, he learns that this is how to get out of the crate. After an hour or so, if he is quiet and settled in the crate, open the door. Remember, when letting him out of the crate, do not say anything, just open the door. At night, move the crate to your bedroom, ask the puppy to go inside, turn off the lights, and ignore any crying. Remember however that a young puppy may not be able to go all night without going to the bathroom. So if you hear him crying, he may need to go out. Use common sense! For the next few days, lock him in the crate when you are at home going about your normal business of making dinner, doing the laundry, etc. Be sure to give him a fun crate toy each time. Ignore any crying, whining or barking. When he is going in the crate without fuss and does not cry, you can start leaving him in the crate when you leave the house. Puppies under 6 months of age should not be expected to stay in a crate and not eliminate for longer than 3-4 hours at a time. You will be able to increase the time he is expected to “hold it” as he gets older. A good ‘rule of thumb’ is that your puppy can only “hold it” for the number of hours he is in age plus one. So if your pup is 3 months old, he can only be expected to hold it for four hours.

: Crate Training Your Dog

Should I ignore my dog crying during crate training?

· Too Much Time In The Crate – A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s spending too much time in too small a space.

Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for longer periods. · Whining If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate.

If you followed the training procedures outlined above, your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. Try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.

  • If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate.
  • If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside.
  • This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time.
  • If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining.

Don’t give in, otherwise you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you’ll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

  • · Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won’t solve the problem.
  • A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate.
  • Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures.

You may want to consult a professional animal behaviorist for help.

Can you crate train with door open?

Training Your Dog to Get into a Crate – Most puppies, even the majority of adult dogs, can be crate-trained with relative ease. Remember that the crate should be just large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. He doesn’t need to be able to play football in it.

  1. If you want to get one large enough for your puppy to grow into, block off the back so he has just enough room, and increase the space as he grows.
  2. Cover the floor of the crate with a rug or soft pad to make it comfortable and inviting, and you’re ready to begin training.
  3. Start with the crate door open, and toss some irresistibly yummy treats inside.

If he is hesitant to go in after them, toss the treats close enough to the doorway that he can stand outside and just poke his nose in the crate to eat them. If you are training with a clicker or other reward marker, each time he eats a treat, Click! the clicker (or say “Yes!” if you are using a verbal marker).

  • Gradually toss the treats farther and farther into the crate until he steps inside to get them.
  • Continue to Click! each time he eats a treat.
  • When he enters the crate easily to get the treats, Click! and offer him a treat while he is still inside.
  • If he is willing to stay inside, keep clicking and treating.

If he comes out that’s okay too, just toss another treat inside and wait for him to re-enter. Don’t try to force him to stay in the crate. When he enters the crate to get the treat without hesitation, you can start using a verbal cue such as “Go to bed” as he goes in, so that you will eventually be able to send him into his crate on just a verbal cue.

  1. When he happily stays in the crate in anticipation of a Click! and treat, gently swing the door closed.
  2. Don’t latch it! Click! and treat, then open the door.
  3. Repeat this step, gradually increasing the length of time the door stays closed before you Click! Sometimes you can Click! and reward without opening the door right away.

When your dog will stay in the crate with the door closed for at least 10 seconds without any signs of anxiety, close the door, latch it, and take one step away from the crate. Click!, return to the crate, reward, and open the door. Repeat this step, varying the time and distance you leave the crate.

Don’t always make it longer and farther – intersperse long ones with shorter ones, so it doesn’t always get harder and harder for him. Start increasing the number of times you Click! and treat without opening the door, but remember that a Click! or a “Yes!” always gets a treat. It’s a good idea to leave the crate open when you aren’t actively training.

Toss treats and his favorite toys in the crate when he’s not looking, so he never knows what wonderful surprises he might find there. You can even feed him his meals in the crate – with the door open – to help him realize that his crate is a truly wonderful place. If, however, he panics to the point of risking injury to himself, you must let him out. You may have a dog with a separation anxiety challenge. A crate is generally not recommended for dogs with separation anxiety, since they tend to panic in close confinement.

If you believe your dog has a separation anxiety problem, stop the crate training and consult a behaviorist or a trainer who has experience with this behavior. Instead of letting your dog out whenever he fusses or whines, wait for a few seconds of quiet, then Click! and reward. Then back up a step or two in the training program until he is again successful at the task you’ve set out for him.

When your dog is doing well at that level again, increase the difficulty in smaller increments, and vary the amount of time, rather than making it progressively longer. For example, instead of going from 5 seconds to 10 to 15, start with 5 seconds, then 7, then 3, then 8, and so on.

Can I crate my dog for 8 hours?

Crate Time For Adult Dogs – Most adult dogs can stay in a crate for about half a day as long as the dog gets ample exercise and walks when he or she is out of the crate. Many adult dogs can manage eight or so hours in a crate while their owners are at work, but longer than this can often cause behavioral problems.

Should I close the crate door on the first night?

My Top Tips for Puppy’s First Nights at New Home – My Puppy Whines at Night Door Open Or Closed When Feeding Dog In Kennels I don’t believe there is a fixed right way to settle puppy in it’s new home the first few nights after being collected from it’s breeder. Finding out what the breeder has been doing the previous few weeks can give a new puppy parent some insight in to what their puppy has been used too.

Whatever the situation though your new puppy is still without it’s siblings and has moved into a new environment with new people and possible other pets as well. Personally I am not a big endorser of starting a puppy off in the bedroom over the first few nights, I am sure you will come across this method in your research.

In my experience to start off there can prove more difficult to reverse when your puppy may well have initially settled elsewhere. It may be a case the bedroom is used if puppy is not able to settle at all without you and this all depends on the individual puppy and its own inner confidence Somewhere along the line after the first few nights you have to work on changing the bedroom situation if you are not planning on having your dog in the bedroom for life.

If you are happy for this then that’s fine but in my experience it will still require some proactive training to change the situation which may cause separation anxiety to develop as the puppy has become used to being with you overnight and bedtime becomes bedtime for all. I do feel it is a choice every new puppy owner has to make and it very much depends on the personality of the individual puppy, how it had been reared, genetics and breed type characteristics can play a huge part in how easily your puppy will settle the first few nights.

Certain breeds such as gundogs have been bred to have a close attachment with their human. Other breeds dislike being isolated but are fine if another dog or animal is with them. It is very much a case of having a plan set up that you are happy with and you have acquired all the necessary equipment prior and be prepared to tweak this as and if you need to.

  • The method I recommend I have used myself for my own puppies and I have recommended to the puppy parents of puppies I have bred in the past.
  • Even being a gundog breed every single one of my puppies has slept through their first nights in another area of the home to their owners.
  • Yes, there may have been a couple of minutes of whining on the owner departure but then puppy has re-settled for the night.

This is the method I have passed onto to all my clients of many different breeds who have reported back happily on the successful settling of their new puppies. I am very conscious of separation anxiety problems later on so it worth seeing the early days through in allowing your puppy time to grow an independence in being able to settle on their own.

  • Collecting your puppy in the morning is advantageous as your puppy will have some time to get to know you and have a nap in the day time before the first night experience.
  • Indeed being there for your puppy and on hand for the first few weeks during the day builds bonds and gives your puppy a sense of security in it’s new home and this helps the puppy feel safe to be able to self entertain and to self sooth into restful sleep.
See also:  What Sizes Do Dog Kennels Crates Come In?

Being on hand does not mean never leaving your puppy alone at all, day alone times are built up gradually whilst you puppy has nap times and this helps to continue the good night-time regime, I also believe that dogs in general sleep more sounder not in the close presence of their humans as with any movement or noise we make in the night can alert out dogs.

  • If you puppy whines, barks or cries certainly offering some assurance that someone is about and they are not isolated is recommended but there is a fine line between being there for your puppy to see or becoming your puppy’s sleep comforter.
  • Rescue puppies that have travelled from other countries may have experienced a grueling journey in confined spaces.

In these cases, I may look to have a different routine for the first couple of nights to offer reassurance to the puppy that there are no more huge changes about to happen. For other puppies that have had just the one move from the breeder to their home then this is the regime I have successfully used with great results,

Firstly, a crate is a good long-term asset, but I much prefer to add an X pen to the crate joined onto the open end of the crate. Closed crates initially for puppies first experience in their new home can be too confining and frightening. If your breeder has crated trained then this may be an option to continue but remember it is very different now for your puppy as it no longer as the company of it’s siblings. If using a crate only option be certain to obtain the biggest possible option you can accommodate so it works like an X-pen with a roof. Certainly, crate training can proceed if the aim is that your adolescent and adult dog are crate trained but if they have developed a crate phobia in those early days in their new home it is very difficult to eradicate that negative abandonment emotion. X pens can be purchased off eBay, Amazon and Pet Shop outlets and you can make the gates up as you wish. Ensure the height of the pen is suitable for the size of your puppy, they grow quickly so going higher is advised. I have attached example pictures below. If you do not have the space for this a utility area onto a kitchen area with a gate can be used as long as this area is not too isolating for the puppy. Be wary of baby gates as at this age a puppy can push their head through or bite the bars and get their teeth stuck on the rungs, so a purposeful dog gate is better. Or the use of plywood. mesh or cardboard attached to the outer side to prevent this from happening. A kitchen/diner area is preferable than the lounge area as your puppy can have evening naps away from you which sets up your night-time routine nicely. If the apartment is in the lounge and your puppy has had your company all evening it can be too much of a sudden shock when it becomes darker, less noisy and puppy suddenly is all alone. Ensure puppy has had some mental stimulation and company throughout the day as well as the advised amount of physical exercise for your puppy’s age. Tempting as it is, try to not allow your puppy to fall asleep on your lap all of the time, have some occasions when puppy is put to bed as this promotes self- soothing rather than the security of your lap or on your foot! Once they are older, hey that is fine your dog has adapted to both ways. Keep to a good routine every night, TV off, last toilet, turn the lights down and a bedtime biscuit or filled Kong. If puppy has slept some of the evening this is normal. More sleep promotes sleep, do not try and over stretch your puppy by stopping it from sleeping in the early mid evening times as often the reverse happens and puppy gets overtired and over stimulated. Quite often this will result in an hour cat nap and then wide awake again. Puppies seem to come alive later in the evenings when we are most tired, expect some later bedroom routines for those first few nights until a pattern has formed Keep your puppy calm before bedtime, an excited puppy will not be a tired puppy A crate with a bed in and attached to an x pen, the crate door open and the x pen door closed. Within the bed you can place a puppy safe heated pad to give comfort or a microwaved snuggle pillow, purchased off the internet A heartbeat lamb toy can be left with your puppy. Toys can be purchased off the internet for use to help your puppy settle the first few nights. I think these are great! Rolled up blankets or jumpers into sausage shapes so they mimic siblings A nightlight Newspaper as a toilet area one end of the area or puppy pads but sometimes these can get chewed, played with and feel too much like carpet under puppy’s foot. I must prefer paper, an artificial grass toilet or a large flat tray with stones, sand, soil combination. A water bowl which is not close to the toilet area. Some bowls clip onto the crate/pen to prevent your puppy knocking them over. Give all meals in the pen for the first month and have a cue to go into the pen and close the pen door To prevent the onset of separation anxiety I would use the pen for quiet nap times with a Kong or safe enrichment item in the daytime, the Kong can be tied onto the bars sometimes to encourage puppy to lie to eat the contents. (Remember to remove as puppy will surely try chewing/eatting the rope if left unattended for longer periods) People can be around and about in the home so your puppy can hear you are there, but you are not interacting. If you have children or any visitors request that they do not to make a huge fuss of your puppy whilst in the calm, chill out apartment To begin with, toilet your puppy and then supply a Kong with some treats in or a final biscuit, I say ‘Night’ quietly and leave the room. You may hear a few cries, whines or attention barks. As long as all your puppy’s needs are being met, I would leave puppy for a few minutes, if after that amount of time your puppy is still being noisy then I would go down to puppy and open the door a little and say ‘shush’ quietly with not actually entering the room then leave again. You may have to repeat but I have found this the most effective way. This should then only take 1-3 nights for things to settle down Your puppy will awake at night a number of times to assess the environment is safe, to toilet. have a wander about and to have a drink. They should settle back down themselves even if you hear a few quiet whines first. In the morning do not make a big fuss when re-entering the room, calmly let your puppy out of the pen and take out to toilet. Bring your puppy back in and clear up any overnight mess and feed your puppy breakfast back within the pen and then take your puppy out again for another toilet and play time. In the daytime do not leave your young puppy for more than 2 hours in the pen at any one time. Ensure your puppy has plenty of interaction with you inside and outside the home when they are not resting. The pen is for sleeping, chilling out and learning some independence from you. If overused for long periods, the pen will become an area of dislike and this in when anxiety starts to set in as your puppy is lonely and bored. IMPORTANT NOTE: There is a time when your puppy will become more toileting aware so will not want to soil in the sleeping area or the apartment as it is deemed to now be indoors by the puppy, and it is now going outside to toilet. It depends on your puppy’s breed type but on average around 13-16 weeks of age. Be mindful of this time, as your puppy develops then the night-time whining and barking usually around 4-5am will mean they do need to be let out to the toilet, usually a poop! On hearing this early morning barking it is then fine to go down to your puppy, do not engage just let puppy out to toilet and then place back in the pen again until the appropriate morning time. Within a few weeks your puppy’s physical development will catch up and the night-time toileting will cease. So, prepare for a few broken nights until their digestive system catches up and they are hold then toileting a bit longer. A pen is invaluable as it is a safe place and becomes the relaxing area even when you are in the home and you are not encouraging your puppy to shadow you and be with you every minute of the day. If you need to go upstairs or you are starting to go out of the home for short spells your puppy is used to the area and knows it is somewhere safe and secure and your furniture remains intact.

Eventually the time will come when you may consider your puppy has come through the major chewing stage and you no longer require the surrounding pen. This can be broken down to widen the area to the room that the pen was in, whether that was the kitchen, lounge or utility area.

  1. Your puppy will just use the crate as his bedroom bed then.
  2. Additional crate training may be required to get your puppy used to the door being closed or you may wish to the door open and cover the crate with a blanket making a cosy den area.
  3. With puppies it is not just the night-time situation to be aware of, you can work on this along with prevention of long-term separation anxiety which is far harder to deal with later on.

I have experienced for some puppies just the use of an enclosed crate straight away on those first few night can escalate anxiety as the over-night period is too long and puppy can feel trapped then anxiety sets in. Therefore, I advise the use of the two pieces of equipment, a pen and a crate and then the crate can continue to be a positive place later in your dog’s life. I consider this a very important aspect of your puppy’s development and this crucial part of early puppy training often gets over-looked. Yes, toileting is high on the agenda and socialisation but prevention of the on-set of separation anxiety can be sorted with the first few days of getting your puppy if it is placed as a priority and the correct areas are set up.

Please note If your puppy is unduly distressed this can promote separation anxiety becoming a problem in the future. Therefore, if your puppy does not settle within the time frame stated, is panting and pacing then another viewpoint should be considered for your individuals puppy’s personality. For the first few nights it may be necessary to have the apartment in your bedroom until your puppy has built its confidence and bonded with you and its new home environment.

Then, gradually move it out and then downstairs over a week or so period. Alternatively sleep within your puppy’s sight for the first couple of nights whilst they get accustomed to not having their Mum and siblings around. I have known people doing this in the initial couple of days but don’t leave it much longer than that as it can then become expected by your puppy.

Every puppy differs in how they cope with the separation from Mum and siblings. Some will take it in their stride others find the process very difficult but handled correctly they all reach the same point long term. Once your puppy feels safe and secure in its new home and has bonded with you it will be more willing to accept its apartment enclosure at night away from you.

Introducing the apartment for its daily nap times first will help this become the norm for the night-time! : My Top Tips for Puppy’s First Nights at New Home – My Puppy Whines at Night

Should I leave the crate open during the day?

Conclusion – Ultimately, the decision is yours to make. If you know that your dog truly enjoys spending time in their crate, perhaps you can leave their crate open to them during the day, but give them access to other parts of your home or backyard so they can come and go as they please.

If you’re concerned that your dog could exhibit destructive behaviors or even put themselves in danger while you’re away, take steps to limit your dog’s access to certain parts of the house. If for whatever reason you think that crating might not be the right solution for your dog while you’re busy at work all day, you may be interested to know how to pick a boarding facility that is professional, reputable, and suits your dog’s temperament.

If you’re going away for a longer period – a work trip, for example – it can help to know how to leave your dog at home while you’re on vacation or away, as well as 6 key points to consider for overnight care,

How long do you have to lock a dog in a crate?

FAQs – Is it cruel to crate train a dog? Some consider crate training cruel, including some dog trainers and PETA, But, your dog can be in more danger when they are home alone. This is especially true for puppies who might chew something they shouldn’t, fall down the stairs, or get injured otherwise.

  1. When done right, puppy crate training is a safer alternative, and your dog might even love their crate.
  2. How long is too long to leave a dog in a crate? Leaving a puppy alone while at work for 8 hours is unacceptable.
  3. You can leave a puppy in a crate for a maximum of 5 hours straight, depending on their age.

Adult dogs can handle up to 8 hours of confinement, but it shouldn’t be an everyday thing. How long is it okay to leave a dog in a crate? Adult dogs shouldn’t be left in crates for more than 6-8 hours. Puppies of 17 weeks and older can handle up to 4 or 5 hours in a crate at a time.

Chihuahua French Bulldog Peekapoo Pug Boston Terrier Bull Terrier Beagle Basset Hound Labrador Retriever Golden Retriever Shiba Inu Akita Inu Shar Pei Chow Chow

How long can a dog be left alone during the day? Some dogs can be left alone for up to 10 hours during the day and not make a scene. However, you shouldn’t do it often. And when you have to, set up a pee pad, enough water, and some food or treats, How long can a puppy be left alone during the day? How long can a puppy be left alone during the day depends on their age.

  1. The younger the puppy, the shorter the interval.
  2. It’s best not to leave puppies alone for more than two hours during the day.
  3. Can you leave a dog home alone overnight? If you have a puppy, you shouldn’t leave them alone overnight.
  4. The same goes for dogs with separation anxiety,
  5. Some dogs might do okay, but this is not something that is recommended.

If you must be away, consider getting a pet camera such as Petcube Bites. This treat-dispensing camera also has night vision so you can check how your dog is doing.

Should I close the crate door during naps?

Open Door – Many dog owners keep the crate around even when their dog is no longer crated with the door closed. Dogs often remember the comfort of their crate (if training is done right) throughout their life and always enjoy to come back to it for a little nap. If you have space, you can keep the crate around with the door open – your dog might just choose to settle in it here and there.

When can you close the crate door?

When Should I Stop Locking My Dog’s Crate At Night? – You can stop locking your dog’s crate at night once the pup is potty-trained and calms down appropriately. When is it time to take a step back? If your puppy immediately runs outside, wants to play, excessively cries, or gets into some kind of trouble, you might want to go back to locking the crate for now.

  • There will be a transition period.
  • Not all dogs do well with an open crate but at 4-6 months, it’s usually not necessary to lock the crate anymore.
  • If you want to be sure, you can keep the crate until they’re one year old.
  • I transitioned my Rottweiler pup far earlier and it was surprisingly the best decision.

Don’t switch between locking the crate and keeping the door open, stay consistent. Once your dog has learned to sleep once the lights are out and behaves appropriately, that’s when you know you can leave the door open. You can even ditch the crate in favor of a dog bed if that’s what you’ve planned on.

Is it OK to let a puppy cry in his crate?

Why Puppies Sometimes Cry in Their Crates – The crate certainly seems like a cold, lonely place when you are used to sleeping with (or under or on top of!) all your friends. From day one, puppies use their voice to communicate with their mothers. If the newborn puppy has gotten wedged in an uncomfortable spot or has accidentally gotten separated from the rest of his littermates, he will whine loudly, often resulting in the mother dog nudging him back to the correct spot. Door Open Or Closed When Feeding Dog In Kennels After really contemplating it from your puppy’s perspective, you may be tempted to do away with crate training all together just to make the little guy feel better in the moment. While it may seem tempting to cuddle your puppy to sleep in your own bed, unless you plan to always be by your puppy’s side, we do recommend crate training as at some point he will have to figure out how to be alone when you are at work or away from home.

So when it comes to dealing with your puppy’s crying in the crate, we recommend focusing on building a positive association. One thing to note is whether or not your puppy has been exposed to any type of kennel training during his first 8 weeks with his breeder. Please note that early introduction to crate training is critical.

Finding a breeder who exposes a puppy to crates and individual time before they go home definitely puts your pup one step ahead with crate training. If, however, you are starting at square one, not to worry- you will just want to start off gradually. Without a proper introduction, the crate can automatically be an object of anxiety.

Learn about our puppy matchmaking process See our upcoming litters of doodle puppies Start your puppy application Speak to a member of our team to learn more

So just having the crate in the room and opening and closing the door near your pup to desensitize him to the sound is a good first step. As he approaches to sniff the crate, offer treats to slowly start building a positive association. On day one, you may simply want to feed your pup in the crate and initially let him sniff the place out without even closing the door.

Once he is familiar with the crate, you can start closing him for short periods of time and always reward him with treats upon entering the crate. Now comes the hard part. Once your pup is comfortable with the sight, sounds, and smells of the crate, it’s time to get serious and ready to hear some whining! Most puppies will object quite loudly, but should settle in under half an hour.

Make sure your puppy has had a potty break just before entering the crate as puppies do not like to soil their crates and will protest loudly if they need to potty as well. Door Open Or Closed When Feeding Dog In Kennels If you know your puppy has recently gone potty and is overall comfortable being near the crate, then it is okay to let him bark and whine. He is simply learning how to settle without being with his pack. Your puppy may bark for a while, settle for a minute and then begin barking again.

As time goes on, his periods of quiet should lengthen a bit and he will eventually fall asleep. The key when it comes to whether or not to ignore or respond to your pup’s cries is all in the timing. Consider this example: you put your pup in the crate with a chew treat and they are happily chewing for a few minutes.

But then they finish their treat and without the distraction of the treat, they begin to cry. You feel bad for the little guy, and after all he was quiet for at least a few minutes, so you go to let him out. After all, you want to be your puppy’s favorite person.

See also:  How Long Do Kennels Last In Dog Daycare?

But if you let your pup out immediately upon hearing his cries, he will make the connection that crying in his crate leads to getting out, which is not an ideal lesson for long-term positive results with crate training. Most of the time we recommend that your pup be settled for 5 or more minutes before being let out of their crate.

The most ideal scenario is that your pup cries for a bit, but settles in under 30 minutes and falls asleep. Then you as the owner decide when to get your pup out — it’s okay to wake them after a while and take them out of their crate. This way your pup is learning that you as the owner set the boundaries about crate time, not the other way around.

  1. However, it’s not always so simple, and there are times that we do recommend responding to your puppy’s cries in their crate.
  2. If your puppy has been barking with no signs of settling for over thirty minutes, it may be time to reevaluate.
  3. Some puppies with a higher degree of separation anxiety may just continue escalating rather than slowly settling.

In this case, you do want to eventually respond to their cries to avoid them developing a strong negative association with the crate. If your puppy is showing no signs of slowing down, it is okay to get them out to reset and try again later. (You can learn more about what age puppies are most difficult here,) You may need to work backwards and gradually work your way to longer crate times.

  1. This may look like feeding treats in the crate with the door open while petting the puppy and simply timing crate sessions for the length of time you feel comfortable with (we recommend starting with 30 minutes) and letting the puppy out after this duration each time.
  2. This way the puppy does not become too stressed in his crate, but should also slowly recognize that you are still determining when he comes out of his crate, and that his barking is not the determining factor.

There is some trial and error involved. Some puppies settle more quickly if they are near their humans and can still see and hear them. This helps them know they are not totally alone and helps them get used to separation in smaller degrees. Other puppies seem to have quite the opposite reaction and bark all the louder when they can see their people as it seems to frustrate them that they are missing out on activity in the household! If this is the case with your doodle, you can try covering his crate with a blanket to see if he settles more quickly without being visually stimulated. Door Open Or Closed When Feeding Dog In Kennels Regardless of whether your pup seems to be catching on easily to crate-training or not, continue working on building positive associations whenever possible. We recommend always feeding your puppy meals in his crate as one reliable, daily positive association.

  1. Also, if you have certain high-value treats that your pup seems to especially enjoy, save those just for crate time.
  2. Longer lasting chews or puzzle toys filled with treats are a good option for giving your pup something to do in his crate.
  3. Eeping busy with food will help build a positive association and distract him from his separation woes.

We came up with a handy new puppy owner checklist you can use.

What if my dog won’t stop crying in crate?

Ignore the whining behavior. – One of the biggest mistakes that new pet parents make is giving their puppies attention or taking their puppies out of the crate once the whining begins. “Ignoring the whining is your best option,” says Dr. Coates. “Any type of attention will just reinforce the behavior.” Campbell says that pet parents should avoid giving attention or taking a puppy out of the crate until he is quiet.

Do dogs grow out of crying in crate?

Crate Training Expectations: Crying is Normal At First With young puppies, crate training generally takes several weeks. Most puppies under the age of about 16 or 20 weeks (4-5 months) won’t be able to stand being in the crate for more than a short period of time — typically no more than a few hours.

What age is too late to crate train?

So, you recently adopted a senior dog and want him to have a safe place to hang out on his own — or maybe you want to crate train your older dog because you just never got around to it. Luckily, you’re not too late: Dogs can be crate trained at any age.

How do I make my dog comfortable in his crate with the door closed?

Ask Crystal: Day Time Crating Tips for Your Puppy Welcome to “Ask Crystal,” where you can ask your pet behavior questions! You can submit your question for Crystal at the bottom of the page! Door Open Or Closed When Feeding Dog In Kennels Dear Crystal, I have a 5-month-old puppy that we brought home at 8 weeks. I can’t seem to get her to nap in her crate during the day. We brought her home during covid, so we were always home to watch her, but with plans to go back to work, we have been trying to crate train her during the day.

She has no problems walking in and out of her crate on her own and runs in for meals. We have always fed her meals in her crate, play games and do basic obedience with her in her crate to create a positive association with the crate. She goes into her crate at night and sleeps in her crate without fussing, but during the day, she would rather sleep everywhere but her crate.

I ask her to go to her crate when I see her napping, but once I close the door she is fully awake and barking and whining to be let out. I’ve tried rewarding her for quiet and calm behavior in the crate once she settles down, but if I approach her crate she’ll get up and start to bark again.

  • She also paws at the floor and door of the crate to get out and I’m afraid she’ll hurt herself.
  • I’ve tried slowly increasing the time I leave the crate door closed, sitting by her crate, but nothing seems to work.
  • I’ve even tried just leaving the room entirely in hopes that if she doesn’t see me, she won’t fuss anymore.

She knows how to be alone, since we leave her for naps in the kitchen by herself. The kitchen is blocked off with baby gates. The crate is also in the kitchen, just off to a corner. I know the easy way out is just to let her sleep in the closed off kitchen and not force her into her crate, but I want her to be able to tolerate the crate for emergency purposes if we ever had to crate her during the day.

Sincerely, Crating Conundrum Dear Crating,

Wow! It sounds like you are really doing a lot of things right here to try to create a positive association with the crate for your puppy. It is really frustrating when we are trying to do everything that the experts tell us to do and it still isn’t working! When thinking through a behavior problem, I always like to think about what function the behavior serves and what is the environmental cue for the behavior.

  • Trainers refer to this problem solving as the ABC’s of training.
  • We have the “antecedent” which is the A.
  • That is the cue for the B which is “behavior.” The behavior produces the “consequence” which is the C.
  • The consequence drives the behavior.
  • In this situation, the antecedent is putting her in her crate in the daytime.

The behavior is her fussing and carrying on. The consequence is that she gets let out of the crate? You didn’t say whether you let her out or not when she fusses but you did say you are worried that she will hurt herself, so I am thinking you are letting her out.

The other thing to think about is that the behavior continues because it is working to get her something that she finds reinforcing. If you aren’t letting her out, then what might that be? It could be some form of attention like looking at or talking to her. The general recommendation is to wait for a few seconds of the puppy being quiet before you let them out.

Dogs have an association period of about 1 second so you just need to make sure you are waiting a couple seconds after the behavior stops to let her out. I think the caveat for me is a dog that is panicking. There is a difference between some whining and barking to be let out and a dog that is having a panic attack.

  1. I obviously can’t know which your dog is having without seeing it.
  2. If a dog is panicking, there is a lot more work that needs to be done prior to leaving them alone.
  3. If she throws a fit as you approach, immediately turn and walk away.
  4. Wait for calm and approach.
  5. Continue to repeat.
  6. The idea with this is that the dog’s behavior of barking makes you go away instead of letting them out.

The only behavior that gets her let out is quiet. That way letting her out is the reward for now rather than food as it seems like that is a more valuable reinforcer to her than food. Again, work on gradually increasing the required time of quiet before releasing. Door Open Or Closed When Feeding Dog In Kennels If you think food is really reinforcing at this point, a creative solution for rewarding from a distance is a tool that remotely feeds treats like a Manners Minder in the crate or try to get good with tossing food in from a distance. Keep the delivery rate up to keep it fun and interesting for the dog and then slowing decrease the rate of delivery.

If you feel like she is panicking and not just barking to be let out, then you really need to start completely over with your crate training. For now, avoid the situations that cause the panicking behavior. I know leaving her loose in the kitchen is not the end goal but for now while you work on changing her crate association, I would use that if you need to leave.

The next question, is why does she not fuss at night? My best guess is that nothing is happening at night so she doesn’t have the same FOMO. Honestly, I am surprised she doesn’t fuss at night with the crate being in the kitchen. Most puppies will cry if they are in a room alone.

  1. Dogs are social creatures.
  2. I usually recommend the nighttime crate be in a bedroom if the dog is fussing at night.
  3. So that brings me to social isolation, which I am wondering is at the heart of the issue.
  4. It could be that your puppy associates the crate with being alone.
  5. I don’t know where you spend your days but I am guessing it isn’t spent all day in the kitchen.

When we are first crate training, I recommend that the crate be in a location where people are spending their time. You can have multiple crates or move the crate around during the day. If you work in a home office, have it in the corner of the home office.

  • In the evening, have it in the living room or wherever your family spends the evening.
  • After the dog has been well trained, it is usually ok to have the crate more isolated but we don’t want the first lesson to be that the crate means isolation.
  • Once you move the crate into a more social location, start over with some of your exercises of going in and out with the door open.

Before moving to the next step, we should always make sure the dog is 100% comfortable and happy with the current step. Maybe feed the meals with the door open at first and work up to the door being closed. At this point stay in the room with her while she is in the crate and keep the time short in the beginning.

Sometimes changing the location can help to reset the dog so we can start over with our training. Once she seems ok for short periods with the door closed in the new location, I suggest always giving her a special toy like a stuffed bone when putting her in the crate during this training period. I like to stuff hollow toys and bones with canned food and freeze them.

It gives them something pleasurable to do and licking is soothing for dogs. If she is too stressed to eat, then I would go back to the exercises with the door open and work on that until she can be in there with the door closed. Move on to briefly leaving the room and coming back in. Door Open Or Closed When Feeding Dog In Kennels Try to exercise her with a game or a walk immediately prior to crating her. Sometimes if a dog is tired, they have less energy to protest and will just fall asleep and nap. day. Rather than waking the dog up from a nap to put them in the crate, we put them in the crate to nap.

  1. It may also be that your puppy despite your efforts just doesn’t like the crate very much.
  2. That could be why she is ok being alone in the kitchen.
  3. While it’s not a hard and fast rule, dogs that really love their crate, often sleep in it when the door is left open.
  4. If your puppy is choosing to nap elsewhere and the crate is made up to be very cozy, she might not have the warm fuzzies about her crate.

Another reason to consider starting over with your training. Otherwise, when you are not training, keep the crate door open. You can hide treats in the blankets for her to find. Maybe there are special treats or toys that she only gets when she goes inside.

Make the inside of the crate super soft and cozy. A game to try build drive to go in the crate is to put a very high value item like a bone inside with the door shut. Let the dog see it and try to get it from the outside. When she is very excited about trying to get in, give her crate cue and let her in to get it.

Another possibility is that her routine up to recently did not involve going into her crate at various times during the day, so she is not used to having to be in there during the day. Dogs are very contextual so they can get used to something at certain times and not others. Door Open Or Closed When Feeding Dog In Kennels Routine is really critical for dogs. Have specific times that the dog goes in the crate. You are feeding meals so that is a perfect example. Breakfast in the crate, let her out after she finishes and calms down. Later in the day have playtime and potty time and then a bone in the crate.

  • Come out for a couple hours and repeat.
  • I also like to crate the puppy at times when I can’t watch them like when working out, showering, eating so I build crate time into those times of day.
  • If you try starting over with these tips and it is still not working, I suggest setting up a session with a Certified Professional Dog Trainer.

It is really hard to help someone via email or on the phone as we really need a lot more details to know what might be going on so a session with a trainer in person is going to go a long way. To locate a trainer, You really are doing so many things right so I have faith you will be able to figure out what the issue is and get your dog feeling much better about her crate very soon.

Should you leave door open when puppy training?

Toilet training can be a minefield for first time puppy parents. Accidents will happen, which means patience is key. There’s no set time for how quickly your puppy will learn, so try not to get frustrated with your pup – he/she will pick it up eventually! But if your furry friend is struggling to learn, then you could be making some very common mistakes in your training technique.

To help you prepare for puppy parenthood, we’ve pulled together the five most common mistakes that could hinder your puppy’s progress.1 – Expecting your puppy to tell you Puppies do not ‘ask’ to go out, at least not for the first few months. If you keep an eye on your puppy, you’ll be able to spot the telltale signs that your puppy is about to go.

Then you can quickly take him/her to their puppy pad or outside. It’s up to you to judge when it is time for a toilet break. If your puppy is going every 20 minutes, then you need to be taking them to their toilet area every 20 minutes. To set up the potty area, our Gastone Puppy Pad Holder is perfect for holding puppy pads in place, preventing leaks onto flooring and discouraging puppies from playing with / destroying the pad.

Place the puppy pad holder in an easily accessible place for your pup and, once they’ve got the hang of it, gradually move the holder closer to the back door.2 – Leaving the door open This is something that many pet owners get into the habit of doing, especially in the summer. Leaving the back door open allows the puppy to wander into the garden as and when he or she pleases.

Whilst there’s nothing wrong with this, it can cause issues if you’re not careful. Whilst your puppy may be relieving itself outside whenever the door is open, you’re not actually teaching them to wait when the door is closed. Try not to let your pup get too reliant on the door being open, this way they’ll learn to tell you when they need to go outside.

  1. And of course out of sight is out of mind, so be sure to keep an eye on your pup when they’re in the garden so you don’t risk escape attempts, or your treasured flower displays being destroyed! 3 – Not cleaning up effectively Dogs have an incredible sense of smell.
  2. You may not be able to smell urine after cleaning up, but Fido sure can! If a puppy can smell urine then it’s likely that they will go back to this spot the next time they need to go, as they associate it as being the toilet area.
See also:  Bloodborne Where Is The Woman Hiding Near The Dog Kennels?

Give the area a thorough clean using specialised products and avoid cleaners that contain ammonia – this smells like urine to dogs.4 – The crate is too big Crates provide dogs with a special place that they can call their own and many owners introduce crate training during the puppy years.

  • Typically, a dog won’t wee in its bed.
  • However, if you’re finding that your puppy is relieving itself on the other side of the crate, then it’s probably too big! If you want to use a crate as part of potty training, then the crate needs to be the recommended size for your puppy, not the size your dog will be when it’s fully grown.

You also shouldn’t crate your puppy for too long, not only is it unethical but your puppy cannot hold it in for very long, especially whilst under 12 weeks of age. Our Options 2-Door Dog Homes come in a range of sizes.5 – Using negative reinforcements Try not to punish your puppy for their accidents, but rather praise them when they get it right.

  1. Telling your puppy off won’t necessarily teach little Rover not to go on the carpet, but he’ll find places that you can’t see to go instead.
  2. If you catch your puppy in the middle of an accident make a noise to startle them and take them to their potty pad to finish.
  3. Make sure you reward them afterwards for going in the right location.

For an extra special treat, use our Leaps & Bounds Multi Treat Training Treats for a healthy and tasty reward that’s packed with Vitamins A and E. Do you have some potty training tips to share? Join the conversation on social media @RosewoodPet,

Should I close the crate door on the first night?

My Top Tips for Puppy’s First Nights at New Home – My Puppy Whines at Night Door Open Or Closed When Feeding Dog In Kennels I don’t believe there is a fixed right way to settle puppy in it’s new home the first few nights after being collected from it’s breeder. Finding out what the breeder has been doing the previous few weeks can give a new puppy parent some insight in to what their puppy has been used too.

  • Whatever the situation though your new puppy is still without it’s siblings and has moved into a new environment with new people and possible other pets as well.
  • Personally I am not a big endorser of starting a puppy off in the bedroom over the first few nights, I am sure you will come across this method in your research.

In my experience to start off there can prove more difficult to reverse when your puppy may well have initially settled elsewhere. It may be a case the bedroom is used if puppy is not able to settle at all without you and this all depends on the individual puppy and its own inner confidence Somewhere along the line after the first few nights you have to work on changing the bedroom situation if you are not planning on having your dog in the bedroom for life.

  • If you are happy for this then that’s fine but in my experience it will still require some proactive training to change the situation which may cause separation anxiety to develop as the puppy has become used to being with you overnight and bedtime becomes bedtime for all.
  • I do feel it is a choice every new puppy owner has to make and it very much depends on the personality of the individual puppy, how it had been reared, genetics and breed type characteristics can play a huge part in how easily your puppy will settle the first few nights.

Certain breeds such as gundogs have been bred to have a close attachment with their human. Other breeds dislike being isolated but are fine if another dog or animal is with them. It is very much a case of having a plan set up that you are happy with and you have acquired all the necessary equipment prior and be prepared to tweak this as and if you need to.

  1. The method I recommend I have used myself for my own puppies and I have recommended to the puppy parents of puppies I have bred in the past.
  2. Even being a gundog breed every single one of my puppies has slept through their first nights in another area of the home to their owners.
  3. Yes, there may have been a couple of minutes of whining on the owner departure but then puppy has re-settled for the night.

This is the method I have passed onto to all my clients of many different breeds who have reported back happily on the successful settling of their new puppies. I am very conscious of separation anxiety problems later on so it worth seeing the early days through in allowing your puppy time to grow an independence in being able to settle on their own.

  • Collecting your puppy in the morning is advantageous as your puppy will have some time to get to know you and have a nap in the day time before the first night experience.
  • Indeed being there for your puppy and on hand for the first few weeks during the day builds bonds and gives your puppy a sense of security in it’s new home and this helps the puppy feel safe to be able to self entertain and to self sooth into restful sleep.

Being on hand does not mean never leaving your puppy alone at all, day alone times are built up gradually whilst you puppy has nap times and this helps to continue the good night-time regime, I also believe that dogs in general sleep more sounder not in the close presence of their humans as with any movement or noise we make in the night can alert out dogs.

  • If you puppy whines, barks or cries certainly offering some assurance that someone is about and they are not isolated is recommended but there is a fine line between being there for your puppy to see or becoming your puppy’s sleep comforter.
  • Rescue puppies that have travelled from other countries may have experienced a grueling journey in confined spaces.

In these cases, I may look to have a different routine for the first couple of nights to offer reassurance to the puppy that there are no more huge changes about to happen. For other puppies that have had just the one move from the breeder to their home then this is the regime I have successfully used with great results,

Firstly, a crate is a good long-term asset, but I much prefer to add an X pen to the crate joined onto the open end of the crate. Closed crates initially for puppies first experience in their new home can be too confining and frightening. If your breeder has crated trained then this may be an option to continue but remember it is very different now for your puppy as it no longer as the company of it’s siblings. If using a crate only option be certain to obtain the biggest possible option you can accommodate so it works like an X-pen with a roof. Certainly, crate training can proceed if the aim is that your adolescent and adult dog are crate trained but if they have developed a crate phobia in those early days in their new home it is very difficult to eradicate that negative abandonment emotion. X pens can be purchased off eBay, Amazon and Pet Shop outlets and you can make the gates up as you wish. Ensure the height of the pen is suitable for the size of your puppy, they grow quickly so going higher is advised. I have attached example pictures below. If you do not have the space for this a utility area onto a kitchen area with a gate can be used as long as this area is not too isolating for the puppy. Be wary of baby gates as at this age a puppy can push their head through or bite the bars and get their teeth stuck on the rungs, so a purposeful dog gate is better. Or the use of plywood. mesh or cardboard attached to the outer side to prevent this from happening. A kitchen/diner area is preferable than the lounge area as your puppy can have evening naps away from you which sets up your night-time routine nicely. If the apartment is in the lounge and your puppy has had your company all evening it can be too much of a sudden shock when it becomes darker, less noisy and puppy suddenly is all alone. Ensure puppy has had some mental stimulation and company throughout the day as well as the advised amount of physical exercise for your puppy’s age. Tempting as it is, try to not allow your puppy to fall asleep on your lap all of the time, have some occasions when puppy is put to bed as this promotes self- soothing rather than the security of your lap or on your foot! Once they are older, hey that is fine your dog has adapted to both ways. Keep to a good routine every night, TV off, last toilet, turn the lights down and a bedtime biscuit or filled Kong. If puppy has slept some of the evening this is normal. More sleep promotes sleep, do not try and over stretch your puppy by stopping it from sleeping in the early mid evening times as often the reverse happens and puppy gets overtired and over stimulated. Quite often this will result in an hour cat nap and then wide awake again. Puppies seem to come alive later in the evenings when we are most tired, expect some later bedroom routines for those first few nights until a pattern has formed Keep your puppy calm before bedtime, an excited puppy will not be a tired puppy A crate with a bed in and attached to an x pen, the crate door open and the x pen door closed. Within the bed you can place a puppy safe heated pad to give comfort or a microwaved snuggle pillow, purchased off the internet A heartbeat lamb toy can be left with your puppy. Toys can be purchased off the internet for use to help your puppy settle the first few nights. I think these are great! Rolled up blankets or jumpers into sausage shapes so they mimic siblings A nightlight Newspaper as a toilet area one end of the area or puppy pads but sometimes these can get chewed, played with and feel too much like carpet under puppy’s foot. I must prefer paper, an artificial grass toilet or a large flat tray with stones, sand, soil combination. A water bowl which is not close to the toilet area. Some bowls clip onto the crate/pen to prevent your puppy knocking them over. Give all meals in the pen for the first month and have a cue to go into the pen and close the pen door To prevent the onset of separation anxiety I would use the pen for quiet nap times with a Kong or safe enrichment item in the daytime, the Kong can be tied onto the bars sometimes to encourage puppy to lie to eat the contents. (Remember to remove as puppy will surely try chewing/eatting the rope if left unattended for longer periods) People can be around and about in the home so your puppy can hear you are there, but you are not interacting. If you have children or any visitors request that they do not to make a huge fuss of your puppy whilst in the calm, chill out apartment To begin with, toilet your puppy and then supply a Kong with some treats in or a final biscuit, I say ‘Night’ quietly and leave the room. You may hear a few cries, whines or attention barks. As long as all your puppy’s needs are being met, I would leave puppy for a few minutes, if after that amount of time your puppy is still being noisy then I would go down to puppy and open the door a little and say ‘shush’ quietly with not actually entering the room then leave again. You may have to repeat but I have found this the most effective way. This should then only take 1-3 nights for things to settle down Your puppy will awake at night a number of times to assess the environment is safe, to toilet. have a wander about and to have a drink. They should settle back down themselves even if you hear a few quiet whines first. In the morning do not make a big fuss when re-entering the room, calmly let your puppy out of the pen and take out to toilet. Bring your puppy back in and clear up any overnight mess and feed your puppy breakfast back within the pen and then take your puppy out again for another toilet and play time. In the daytime do not leave your young puppy for more than 2 hours in the pen at any one time. Ensure your puppy has plenty of interaction with you inside and outside the home when they are not resting. The pen is for sleeping, chilling out and learning some independence from you. If overused for long periods, the pen will become an area of dislike and this in when anxiety starts to set in as your puppy is lonely and bored. IMPORTANT NOTE: There is a time when your puppy will become more toileting aware so will not want to soil in the sleeping area or the apartment as it is deemed to now be indoors by the puppy, and it is now going outside to toilet. It depends on your puppy’s breed type but on average around 13-16 weeks of age. Be mindful of this time, as your puppy develops then the night-time whining and barking usually around 4-5am will mean they do need to be let out to the toilet, usually a poop! On hearing this early morning barking it is then fine to go down to your puppy, do not engage just let puppy out to toilet and then place back in the pen again until the appropriate morning time. Within a few weeks your puppy’s physical development will catch up and the night-time toileting will cease. So, prepare for a few broken nights until their digestive system catches up and they are hold then toileting a bit longer. A pen is invaluable as it is a safe place and becomes the relaxing area even when you are in the home and you are not encouraging your puppy to shadow you and be with you every minute of the day. If you need to go upstairs or you are starting to go out of the home for short spells your puppy is used to the area and knows it is somewhere safe and secure and your furniture remains intact.

Eventually the time will come when you may consider your puppy has come through the major chewing stage and you no longer require the surrounding pen. This can be broken down to widen the area to the room that the pen was in, whether that was the kitchen, lounge or utility area.

Your puppy will just use the crate as his bedroom bed then. Additional crate training may be required to get your puppy used to the door being closed or you may wish to the door open and cover the crate with a blanket making a cosy den area. With puppies it is not just the night-time situation to be aware of, you can work on this along with prevention of long-term separation anxiety which is far harder to deal with later on.

I have experienced for some puppies just the use of an enclosed crate straight away on those first few night can escalate anxiety as the over-night period is too long and puppy can feel trapped then anxiety sets in. Therefore, I advise the use of the two pieces of equipment, a pen and a crate and then the crate can continue to be a positive place later in your dog’s life. I consider this a very important aspect of your puppy’s development and this crucial part of early puppy training often gets over-looked. Yes, toileting is high on the agenda and socialisation but prevention of the on-set of separation anxiety can be sorted with the first few days of getting your puppy if it is placed as a priority and the correct areas are set up.

*** Please note If your puppy is unduly distressed this can promote separation anxiety becoming a problem in the future. Therefore, if your puppy does not settle within the time frame stated, is panting and pacing then another viewpoint should be considered for your individuals puppy’s personality. For the first few nights it may be necessary to have the apartment in your bedroom until your puppy has built its confidence and bonded with you and its new home environment.

Then, gradually move it out and then downstairs over a week or so period. Alternatively sleep within your puppy’s sight for the first couple of nights whilst they get accustomed to not having their Mum and siblings around. I have known people doing this in the initial couple of days but don’t leave it much longer than that as it can then become expected by your puppy.

Every puppy differs in how they cope with the separation from Mum and siblings. Some will take it in their stride others find the process very difficult but handled correctly they all reach the same point long term. Once your puppy feels safe and secure in its new home and has bonded with you it will be more willing to accept its apartment enclosure at night away from you.

Introducing the apartment for its daily nap times first will help this become the norm for the night-time! : My Top Tips for Puppy’s First Nights at New Home – My Puppy Whines at Night

When can you close the crate door?

When Should I Stop Locking My Dog’s Crate At Night? – You can stop locking your dog’s crate at night once the pup is potty-trained and calms down appropriately. When is it time to take a step back? If your puppy immediately runs outside, wants to play, excessively cries, or gets into some kind of trouble, you might want to go back to locking the crate for now.

There will be a transition period. Not all dogs do well with an open crate but at 4-6 months, it’s usually not necessary to lock the crate anymore. If you want to be sure, you can keep the crate until they’re one year old. I transitioned my Rottweiler pup far earlier and it was surprisingly the best decision.

Don’t switch between locking the crate and keeping the door open, stay consistent. Once your dog has learned to sleep once the lights are out and behaves appropriately, that’s when you know you can leave the door open. You can even ditch the crate in favor of a dog bed if that’s what you’ve planned on.